Photo: Don Chebo and me sowing garlic. Let´s see if it grows in Salvador Allende, so that it can be used to combat plagues.

The 19 till 30th of January, we spent in Rancho Salvador Allende, Selva Lacandona, Chiapas. It is a very isolated community, at least 10 hours walking from San Quentin. The Rancho was started by the father of Don Chebo and some twenty years ago Don Chebo came to live here permenantly with his family and the family of his ¨compadre¨ Don Lazaro (godfather of one of his children, you normally have a ´chingo´ of godfathers , some two for every child). He cut down a lot of trees to keep cattle, grow his maize and beans and build houses.
Don Chebo is about my father´s age and together with Doña Michaela he has nine grown up sons and daughters, the youngest being Juanita with 23 (you can see her on earlier photos). Except for Juanita all of them have maried and have at least four, but up to twelve children each. In the whole community there are about seventy people, all ofspring of these two men (and some sons and daughters live in nearby communities). Sometimes it reminds me of the yearly family camping we used to do with the family of my maternal grandmother... but this is a permenant family camp.
Since children are often named after their grandparents or other family members, the diversity in names is small. One day I was looking for Chebo, and they pointed at several small boys in answer to my question. ¨No, no, tata Chebo - grandfather Chebo¨.
Now that I was in this community for the third time, I got to know a lot of the family members and their attitude to me changed. Although I am still something exotic, people now speak directly to me instead of looking at Carolina when they want to say something. I was present in two meetings (if you want to see direct democracy in place come to Chiapas!!), one of the regional promoters to define this years projects with CETAMEX and one with the community. They accepted my participation well, especially when they understood that I am looking for Dutch funding, but also when they understood I was interested in working with them on energy saving. In the last meeting by flash light, I had to explain about the toxicity of batteries and the project we want to write to build a solar and wood building stove. It was then translated to Tseltal for the women. It is so nice to be more involved, sharing their concerns!!
Since my lungs were behaving very well this stay, I had energy for what I love doing most:
Going to the field, harvesting beans, pruning the coffee shrubs, weeding the
milpas and
frijolar with the machete (kapmes) ¨Juana, juana, watch out for the snakes. What if you die here, I don´t want problems¨.
Cutting banana leaves to be used for the
tamales (typical dish) for the party,
¨Juana, juana, please, you are the tallest, cut those big leaves up there¨
With Don Chebo chattering away all day long about his youth, about how he became orphan really young, about his life in the ranch, about how he would like to have a house in town, about all his
novias (girlfriends). Yes, the double morale is certain: while women should marry as señoritas, virgins, the men often have other women besides their wife. Chebo: ¨I am a man¨.
On the other hand, divorces are rare, and there is also a strong morale that a man should maintain his wife and live with her for all their life.
Even though sometimes we do not listen anymore (he does not mind just chatters on), tired of his endless stream of words, we learn a whole lot about the customs, dreams and projects of Chebo and his family.
The sons of Chebo are very interesting persons, all with their own personality, having in common their inteligence, political consciousness and proudness.
Lazaro is the ´politician´, who is an authority in the region (appointed by his people) and gives revolutionary speeches at every occasion. His voice is like Don Chebo´s, always a little too loud, shouting what sounds like orders to the women and children. He was fighting with the Zapatista for the longest time and is now strongly involved in ´la otra campaña´ (an attempt of the EZLN to line up with allied groups throughout the country) as a member of the ARIC. He also is health promoter, although of reproductory health he seems to know little: with 34 his wife is expecting her 12th child. Don Chebo and his brother Sebastian think he ought to stop, but as Lazaro says: ¨More children, means more people for the struggle, the rebellion against the government, the fight for our land.¨The women are sometimes scared to go to the doctor in San Quentin for information on birth regulation, as women have been sterilised without their permission in the past...
(And as Nacho told me, some of his collegues continue this practise...)
Sebastian is the ´promoter of religion´, a very intellectual and tranquil man, who likes to read. His father did not let him go to secondary school, as there was no money and he was too proud to accept help for his son or maybe he could not miss the work force... Sebastian is leading the church services. These are normally short, with some prayers, reading of the bible, a reflection on the text by whomever wants. The small church is on the hill in between the two families and after the bible reading, community issues like the time schedule of the next party are discussed. In this region, progressive priests have played an important role in raising awareness of the people´s situation by their Theology of Liberation. By educating critical diaconans like Sebastian, they helped organising their resistance.
Sebastian likes to remember old stories, and Carolina will try to help him write a book with these local stories so that they do not get forgotten. In the same way it would be nice to record Don Chebo´s flute tunes. There are tunes to ask for the rain, sun or peace.
The two youngest sons dream of other places than their fathers´ ranch. Chebo junior and Hilario undertook the dangerous travel through the desert to work as an illegal migrant worker in the USA. After three intents they managed to cross the border, some Guatemaltecos in their group were left behind when they could not follow anymore because of thirst and agotation and have probably died. The
coyotes (mensensmokkelaar) often leave people behind... Hilario had to return after a few months when he fell ill, but is determined to try it again, the dollars and adventure calling. ¨And if I were single, I would stay there.¨
Don Chebo is angry with his youngest sons ¨Is there anything they do not have: clothes, food, a horse, we are poor, but we eat. Why do they go and work in the North, leave their mother crying and me with all the work?¨ Don Chebo is very interested in the Dutch situation that sometimes occurs so odd that I have trouble explaining it. Hearing of my uncles with more than 200 cows, it is hard for Chebo to understand that they have problems to sustain their farms, being indebted, all their capital invested in land and machinery. Don Chebo considers himself a
campesino (peasant), but is surprised that I do not know any farmer in Holland with more terrain than his: 400 hectares!! (Ok, big part of it is Selva, but still you can extract wild plants and animals from it.)
That in my ´rich´ country, most children grow up not knowing that milk comes from a cow and eggs are not produced in factories. That I have two friends that are looking everywhere to buy a small terrain to start a farm. That many small farmers have had to give up farming, that weekly 10 farmers stop... That being a farmer has become a luxury, and at the same time has remained a hard job even with all the machinery.
We talk about richness, and how many people would like to have the space, earth, fresh air and tranquil environment that he lives in. But the big difference is, that for us, it would be a choice, amongst many others. For them it is not a choice, and don´t we humans dream of what we do not have? Besides, probably we would not want to have the other part of his story: yes, the place, but being able to go whenever we want, when we are ill or simply get tired of admiring the trees...
Again we were invited to a party. The community celebrated the ´Sentada del Niño Jesus´ with candles, fire works, a doll of the child Jesus, singing, dancing on the music of a band of guitars, violin and contrabass played by Zapatistas from the nearby community Pichucalco. I have a nice recording of them, but I do not know how to attach it :-(
All day long the preparations went on, with every one having a task designated to him or her. The men build up the party tent, set the tables and cut the banana leaves. The women are preparing the food,
atole, and
tamales. We help in making the tamales (maiz massa with chicken sauce rolled in banana leaves which is then cooked in vapour), and the women laugh a lot at our struggles with the massa and the leaves. Catalina holds up one of my tamales ¨Muc, muc (big, big)¨ for everyone to see the mega-tamale... Apperently they like them small.
At the end of the party, the child Jesus has gone missing. The ones who stole him, have to organize and pay the next party...

Photo: Preparation for the Fiesta de la Sentada del Niño, preparing
atole, a sweet but heavy maize drink